What is an energy audit
Solar Knowledge

What is an energy audit

December 8, 2025
25 min read

Imagine you are about to drive a car across the country. You want to go fast, save money on gas, and enjoy the ride. But before you fill the tank with premium fuel, wouldn't you check the tires? Wouldn't you make sure there isn't a hole in the gas tank?
If you are a homeowner in the United States looking at solar power, you are essentially preparing for a long, exciting journey toward energy independence. You are ready to invest in high-tech panels to generate your own clean electricity. But here is the catch: if your home is leaking energy—if it has "flat tires" or a "hole in the gas tank"—you are going to waste a lot of that expensive solar power. You might end up buying a system that is much bigger and more expensive than you actually need, simply to cover up for the fact that your house is wasting heat and air conditioning.1
This is where the home energy audit comes in. It is the single most important step you can take before installing solar panels. It is a physical exam for your house. Just like a doctor checks your blood pressure and listens to your heart to find out what is going on inside your body, an energy auditor uses special tools to look inside your walls and ceilings to see where your energy dollars are disappearing.3
But right now, in late 2025, this topic is more urgent than ever. We are standing on the edge of a major "fiscal cliff." For the last few years, homeowners have enjoyed generous tax credits from the federal government to help pay for these audits and the upgrades that follow. However, due to the recent passage of the "One Big Beautiful Bill Act" (Public Law 119-21), many of these credits—specifically the ones for energy efficiency and solar installation—are set to expire permanently on December 31, 2025.4
This report is your comprehensive guide to understanding what an energy audit is, why it is the best financial move you can make before going solar, and how to race against the clock to lock in your federal incentives before the ball drops on New Year’s Eve. We will break down the science of your home in plain English, walk you through the cool gadgets auditors use (like the "blower door" that might make your ears pop!), and help you decide between doing it yourself or hiring a pro.

1.1 The "Reduce Before You Produce" Mantra

In the solar industry, there is a golden rule: Reduce before you produce.2
It sounds simple, but it is profound. "Reduce" means lowering the amount of electricity your home needs to run comfortably. "Produce" means generating your own electricity with solar panels.
If you skip the "reduce" step, you are falling into a common trap. Let’s say your home has old, drafty windows and zero insulation in the attic. In the summer, your air conditioner has to run 24/7 just to keep the house at 75 degrees. It uses a massive amount of electricity. If you call a solar company, they will look at your electric bill and say, "Wow, you use a lot of power! You need 40 solar panels to cover this bill."
That system might cost you $30,000.1
Now, imagine you get an energy audit first. The auditor finds the leaks and tells you that for $2,000, you can seal the attic and add insulation. You do it. Suddenly, your house holds the cool air. Your AC runs half as much. Your electric bill drops by 30%.1
Now, when the solar company looks at your bill, they say, "Oh, you are pretty efficient. You only need 28 panels."
That smaller system might cost $22,000. By spending $2,000 on efficiency, you saved $8,000 on solar panels. You kept $6,000 in your pocket, and your house is more comfortable to live in. That is the power of an energy audit.1

1.2 What This Report Covers

In the following pages, we are going to dive deep. We aren't just skimming the surface; we are going to look at the nuts and bolts of how your home works. Here is the roadmap:

  • The Science of Your Home: Why does it feel drafty? Why is the upstairs always hot in summer? We explain the "stack effect."
  • The Audit Process: A step-by-step walkthrough of what happens when a pro comes to your door. We will explain the blower door test, thermal cameras, and safety checks.
  • DIY vs. Pro: Can you do this yourself? We will give you a checklist for a weekend DIY audit, but also explain what you might miss.
  • The Findings: What are the "weird" leaks found in most homes? (Hint: It’s not always the windows).
  • The 2025 Incentive Cliff: A detailed look at the tax credits expiring this month. This is critical financial info.
  • Myths Debunked: Does your house really "need to breathe"? (Spoiler: No, it needs to be ventilated).

Let’s get started on making your home smarter, cheaper, and ready for the solar revolution.

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2. Understanding Your Home: It’s a System, Not Just a Box

To understand an energy audit, you have to stop thinking of your house as just a collection of rooms, wood, and drywall. You need to think of it as a system.3
Your body is a system. If your lungs aren't working right, your heart has to work harder. Your car is a system. If the radiator is broken, the engine overheats. Your house is exactly the same. The "envelope" (the outer shell of walls, roof, and floor), the mechanical systems (furnace, AC, water heater), and the occupants (you and your family) all interact with each other.

2.1 The "Building Envelope"

The most important concept in an energy audit is the building envelope.3
If you live in a submarine, the "envelope" is the metal hull. If there is a hole in the hull, water comes in, and you have a big problem. In your house, the envelope is supposed to keep your expensive heated air inside during winter and the hot, humid air outside during summer.
But most American homes have an envelope that looks less like a submarine and more like Swiss cheese. There are gaps everywhere—around pipes, wires, chimneys, and recessed lights. An energy audit is basically a mission to find these holes.

2.2 The Stack Effect: Why Your Money Flies Out the Roof

Why do these leaks matter? It comes down to physics. The biggest enemy of energy efficiency in a multi-story home is something called the Stack Effect.8
Think about a chimney. Hot air is lighter than cold air, so it rises. In the winter, your furnace heats the air inside your house. That warm air floats up to the second floor and into the attic. It pushes against the ceiling, looking for any tiny crack to escape.
When that warm air leaks out of the top of your house (through the attic hatch, light fixtures, etc.), it creates a vacuum at the bottom of the house. It sucks cold air in from the outside to replace the air that left. This cold air gets pulled in through the basement rim joists, cracks in the foundation, or gaps around the front door.
So, your furnace runs to heat the air. The air rises and escapes through the roof. Cold air gets sucked in at the bottom. The furnace detects the cold air and turns on again. It is a never-ending cycle of wasting money.
An energy audit measures exactly how bad this "stack effect" is in your home and tells you how to stop it.

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3. The Professional Audit Experience: What to Expect

You have decided to hire a professional. Good move. While there are things you can do yourself (which we will cover later), a professional auditor brings tools that allow them to see the invisible.
A professional audit usually takes about 3 to 6 hours, depending on the size of your house.3 It isn't a quick 15-minute walkthrough. It is a thorough investigation. Here is the play-by-play of what happens.

3.1 Step 1: The Interview and Bill Analysis

Before the auditor even opens their toolbox, they will sit down with you. They want to be a detective. They will ask questions like:

  • "Is the master bedroom always cold in the winter?"
  • "Do you get ice dams on the roof?"
  • "Does anyone in the house suffer from allergies or asthma?"

They will also ask for your utility bills from the last 12 months.1 This is crucial. They are looking for patterns. If your electricity usage spikes massively in July compared to your neighbors, it might mean your AC is dying or your insulation is nonexistent. This "baseline" helps them figure out how much money you can realistically save.10

3.2 Step 2: The Exterior Inspection

The auditor heads outside. They walk around the perimeter of your house, looking at the "shell." They are checking:

  • The Roof: Is it in good condition for solar panels? How old are the shingles? Are there trees shading the south-facing side where panels would go?.1
  • Siding and Foundation: Are there visible cracks where the house meets the ground? Is the siding pulling away?
  • Eaves and Vents: Are the attic vents blocked? Is the soffit (the underside of the roof overhang) rotting?

3.3 Step 3: The Blower Door Test (The Main Event)

This is the part that distinguishes a real energy audit from a simple inspection. The Blower Door Test is the gold standard for measuring air leaks.3

How It Works

The auditor sets up a temporary frame in your front door. Inside this frame is a flexible canvas panel and a powerful, calibrated fan.
The auditor closes all your windows and exterior doors but opens all the interior doors to rooms and closets. They turn on the fan. The fan pulls air out of your house and blows it outside.12
This creates a vacuum inside your home. The air pressure inside drops lower than the air pressure outside. This is called "depressurizing" the house.12
Because nature hates a vacuum, the outside air tries to rush back in. It forces its way through every single crack, gap, and hole in your home's envelope. It comes rushing in through the outlets, the window frames, the recessed lights, and the basement rim joists.

Does It Hurt?

You might wonder if this pressure change feels weird. Some people ask if their "ears will pop," like when an airplane takes off. The answer is generally no. The pressure change is strong enough for the sensors to measure, but it is very subtle for humans. It is roughly equivalent to the pressure change of riding an elevator down a few floors. You might feel a slight difference, but it is not uncomfortable.13

The Result: The CFM50 Number

The auditor uses a computer connected to the fan to measure exactly how much air is leaking in. They get a number called CFM50 (Cubic Feet per Minute at 50 Pascals of pressure).14

  • A low number means your house is tight and efficient.
  • A high number (like 2,000 or more for an average house) means your house is "leaky." It is like having a window wide open all winter long.14

3.4 Step 4: Infrared Thermography (Seeing the Invisible)

While the blower door fan is running, the auditor will walk around with an Infrared (Thermal) Camera. This is where the magic happens.
Normally, you can't see cold air leaking in. But the thermal camera can. It sees heat.
Because the blower door is sucking cold outside air into the house through the cracks, those cracks show up as dark blue or purple streaks on the camera screen. The walls might look orange (warm), but the outlet on the wall might look deep purple (cold).
This allows the auditor to show you exactly where you are losing money. They can spot:

  • Missing Insulation: If a section of your wall is purple while the rest is orange, it means the insulation has settled or was never installed.
  • Thermal Bridges: This is where the wooden studs in the wall are transferring heat faster than the insulation. It looks like a skeleton pattern on the wall.16
  • Moisture: Wet insulation looks different than dry insulation. The camera can find hidden leaks behind the drywall before mold starts to grow.15

3.5 Step 5: Combustion Safety (Critical for Safety)

This step is vital. If you seal up your house tightly to save energy, you need to make sure you aren't trapping poisonous gases inside.
The auditor checks your gas furnace, water heater, and stove. They use a "combustion analyzer" to measure the exhaust gases. They are looking for Carbon Monoxide (CO) and checking for backdrafting.3
Backdrafting happens when the exhaust from your water heater doesn't go up the chimney but instead spills back into your house. This can happen if the house is too tight or if exhaust fans (like a strong kitchen hood) are competing for air. A professional audit ensures that your home is safe, not just efficient.17

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4. The Solar Connection: Why Audit Before You Install?

Let's back to the solar panels. Why is this audit so important for your solar journey?

4.1 Right-Sizing Your System

Solar panels are sold by the watt. The more watts you need, the more you pay.
If your home is inefficient, you might need a 10-kilowatt (kW) system to cover your electricity usage. But if the audit shows you how to cut your usage by 25% through air sealing and insulation, you might only need a 7.5-kW system.1
The Math of Savings:

  • Cost of efficiency upgrades (insulation/sealing): ~$2,000 - $4,000.
  • Savings on smaller solar system: ~$5,000 - $8,000.
  • Net Result: You save thousands of dollars upfront, and you have a more comfortable home.1

Plus, a smaller system takes up less roof space, which is great if you have a small roof or shading issues.6

4.2 Avoiding "Clipping" and Electrical Upgrades

Sometimes, installing a large solar system requires upgrading your home's main electrical panel. This can cost $2,000 to $4,000. By reducing your energy needs, you might be able to stay with your current electrical panel, saving that huge expense.10

4.3 The "Solar-Ready" Roof Check

The auditor checks your roof structure. Solar panels are heavy. They stay up there for 25 years. If your roof shingles are 15 years old and curling, the auditor will tell you to replace the roof before installing solar. Taking panels off to replace a roof five years later is a very expensive headache.7

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5. DIY Audit: What You Can Do Yourself

Maybe you aren't ready to hire a pro yet. Or maybe you want to find the "low-hanging fruit" this weekend. You can do a DIY audit, but you need to know what you are looking for.

5.1 The DIY Toolkit

You don't need expensive gear. Grab these items:

  • A notebook and pen.
  • A flashlight.
  • A stick of incense or a thin piece of toilet paper.10
  • A ladder (for the attic).
  • A screwdriver (to check outlets).

5.2 The "Incense Test"

Pick a windy day. Close all windows and doors. Turn off your furnace. Turn on all your exhaust fans (kitchen, bath) to create a little bit of negative pressure (a poor man's blower door).19
Light the incense stick. Walk around your house. Hold the smoking stick near:

  • Window frames.
  • Door frames.
  • Electrical outlets.
  • Baseboards.

If the smoke wavers or gets sucked horizontal, you have a leak. Mark it down in your notebook.18

5.3 The Attic Expedition

If it is safe to do so, peek into your attic.

  • Check the Depth: Look at the insulation on the floor. If it is level with or below the wooden floor joists, you probably don't have enough. You want a thick blanket that covers the wood completely.10
  • Look for Dirty Spots: If you see insulation that looks black or dirty, that is a sign of an air leak. The air moving through the insulation acts like a filter, trapping dust. That dirty spot is where air is leaking from the house below.8

5.4 The Limitations of DIY

A DIY audit is great for finding drafts you can fix with a caulking gun. But it has limits.

  • You can't see inside walls: You won't find the insulation gaps that a thermal camera sees.
  • You can't measure safety: You can't test for carbon monoxide or backdrafting.17
  • No ROI Report: A DIY audit won't give you a computer-generated report telling you which upgrades pay for themselves the fastest.3

Table 1: DIY vs. Professional Audit

Feature DIY Audit Professional Audit
Cost Free (just your time) $300 - $600 (often reimbursed)
Tools Flashlight, Incense Blower Door, Infrared Camera
Accuracy Guesswork precise Data (CFM50)
Safety Visual check only CO & Gas Leak testing
Rebates None Qualifies for Federal/State Rebates

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6. The "Weird" Leaks: Surprising Findings

Auditors often find leaks in places homeowners never suspect. Here are the top "weird" energy wasters.

6.1 The "Swiss Cheese" Recessed Lights

If you have those older "can" lights recessed into your ceiling, they are often major energy wasters. They are essentially metal chimneys with hot lightbulbs inside. They get hot, creating a draft that sucks warm air from your living room right up into the attic. Sealing these or replacing them with sealed LED units is a huge win.9

6.2 The Attic Hatch

Go look at the door or hatch you use to get into the attic. Is it insulated? Does it have weatherstripping? If not, it’s basically a hole in your ceiling. Heat pours out of it all winter. Auditors often recommend building an insulated box to cover it from the top.9

6.3 Plumbing Vent Pipes

Look under your sink where the drain pipe goes into the wall. Is there a big gap around the pipe? That gap often leads directly into the wall cavity or the crawlspace. It’s a highway for cold air (and bugs/mice!). A can of spray foam is the quick fix here.21

6.4 The "Rim Joist"

Go into your basement. Look up at the top of the foundation wall where the wood frame of the house sits on the concrete. That area is called the "rim joist." It is notoriously leaky. You can often see daylight through cracks there. Insulating and sealing this rim joist can make your basement—and the floors above it—much warmer.9

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7. The 2025 "Incentive Cliff": Urgent Financial News

This section is the most critical for your wallet. If you are reading this in late 2025, you need to pay close attention.
For the past few years, the Inflation Reduction Act (IRA) has provided amazing tax credits to help Americans upgrade their homes. However, the political winds have shifted.
On July 4, 2025, President Trump signed the "One Big Beautiful Bill Act" (Public Law 119-21).4 This law makes major changes to the tax code. One of the biggest changes is that it ends the energy efficiency and solar tax credits much earlier than originally planned.

7.1 The Deadline: December 31, 2025

Under the new law, the following tax credits will expire completely on December 31, 2025.22
If you want to claim these credits, your audit must be completed, and your upgrades (insulation, solar panels, heat pumps) must be "placed in service" (installed and working) by this date.

7.2 What You Can Still Claim (If You Act Now)

As long as you finish before the deadline, here is what you can get under Section 25C and 25D of the tax code 25:
Table 2: Expiring Federal Tax Credits (Must Complete by Dec 31, 2025)

Item Tax Credit Amount Limit
Home Energy Audit 30% of the cost Max $150 credit
Insulation & Air Sealing 30% of the cost Max $1,200 credit
Windows 30% of the cost Max $600 credit
Exterior Doors 30% of the cost Max $500 ($250 per door)
Heat Pumps 30% of the cost Max $2,000 credit
Solar Panels (PV) 30% of the cost No Dollar Limit

Example:
If you get an audit for $400, verify your insulation is bad, spend $3,000 adding insulation, and install a $20,000 solar system:

  • Audit Credit: You get $120 back (30% of $400).
  • Insulation Credit: You get $900 back (30% of $3,000).
  • Solar Credit: You get $6,000 back (30% of $20,000).
  • Total Tax Savings: $7,020.

Warning: If you wait until January 1, 2026, under the current "One Big Beautiful Bill" law, these credits go to zero. There is no grace period.27

7.3 State Rebates (Stackable Cash)

In addition to federal tax credits, your state or utility company might offer cash rebates. These are often "stackable," meaning you can use them and the tax credit (just remember to subtract the rebate from the cost before calculating the tax credit).25

  • Mass Save (Massachusetts): This is one of the best programs in the country. They offer 75% to 100% off approved insulation and air sealing work. They also offer up to $10,000 in rebates for switching to heat pumps.29
  • Duke Energy (Florida): If you are a Duke customer, you must get a "Home Energy Check" to qualify for rebates. You can get up to $800 for attic insulation and $1,000 for a new HVAC system.31
  • Con Edison (New York): They offer massive incentives for multifamily buildings and affordable housing, sometimes covering thousands of dollars per unit for upgrades.33

Action Item: Check your local utility website today. Many require a certified audit to unlock these rebates.

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8. Busting Common Myths

Let’s clear up some bad advice you might have heard from a neighbor or uncle.

Myth 1: "My house needs to breathe!"

Reality: People need to breathe; houses do not. A house that "breathes" through cracks in the attic and crawlspace is breathing dirty, dusty, moldy air. It is much better to seal the house tight to stop energy waste and then use mechanical ventilation (like a fan) to bring in fresh, filtered air. "Build it tight, ventilate it right" is the motto of building scientists.35

Myth 2: "Replacing windows is the best way to save energy."

Reality: New windows are nice, but they are expensive. The "Return on Investment" (ROI) is slow—it might take 20 years to pay them off in energy savings. Air sealing and attic insulation are much cheaper and often pay for themselves in 2-3 years. Windows should be replaced for comfort or aesthetics, but rarely just for energy savings.14

Myth 3: "Energy audits are too expensive."

Reality: Many utility companies offer them for free or at a steep discount. Plus, with the federal tax credit (until Dec 31, 2025), you get 30% back. When you consider the thousands you save on a smaller solar system and lower bills, the audit usually pays for itself in the first year.3

Myth 4: "Turning the thermostat up to 90 degrees heats the house faster."

Reality: Your furnace runs at one speed. Setting it to 90 just means it will run longer and overshoot your target, wasting money. It won't warm up the room any faster than setting it to 70.37

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9. Conclusion: The Clock is Ticking

An energy audit is not just a clipboard inspection; it is a roadmap to a better home. It uses science and technology to show you exactly where your hard‑earned money is leaking out of your walls.
For homeowners interested in solar, it is the foundation of a smart investment. By "reducing before you produce," you ensure that every solar panel on your roof is pulling its weight, rather than just compensating for a drafty attic.
But remember the date: December 31, 2025.
The "One Big Beautiful Bill Act" has drawn a line in the sand. The historic tax credits that make these upgrades so affordable are going away. If you have been thinking about auditing your home, adding insulation, or going solar, the time for thinking is over. The time for action is now.
Schedule your audit. Seal those leaks. Size your solar system correctly. Your wallet—and your warm, cozy home—will thank you.

Summary Checklist for Homeowners

  1. Call a Pro: Look for a BPI-certified auditor or check your utility's website for approved vendors.38
  2. Gather Bills: Find your last 12 months of electric and gas bills.1
  3. Ask Questions: Ask the auditor about the "Blower Door test" and "Thermal Imaging." Make sure they include safety testing.38
  4. Review the Report: Look for the "low hanging fruit" like air sealing and insulation.
  5. Get Quotes: Get quotes for the efficiency work and the solar installation.
  6. Beat the Deadline: Ensure all work is finished and operational by Dec 31, 2025, to claim the 30% tax credit.22

Works cited

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