Choosing a Solar Installation Company

Deciding to power your home with solar energy is one of the most exciting and impactful choices you can make as a homeowner. It is a decision that touches on financial independence, environmental stewardship, and the simple, rugged satisfaction of producing your own power. However, it is also a significant construction project. Unlike buying a new refrigerator or a television, where the product is the same regardless of which store you buy it from, a solar energy system is a custom‑built power plant attached to your most valuable asset: your home. The success or failure of this investment does not depend primarily on the brand of panels you choose or the specific inverter technology you select. Instead, the single most critical variable in the entire equation is the company you hire to install it.
A mediocre solar panel installed by a master craftsman will provide decades of reliable, safe energy. The world’s most expensive, high‑efficiency panel installed by a cutting‑corner contractor can lead to roof leaks, electrical fires, voided warranties, and a system that never quite works as promised. The market is flooded with options, from massive national corporations with Super Bowl commercials to local electricians working out of a single van. Navigating this landscape requires a steady hand and a bit of insider knowledge.
This guide is designed to be your companion through that process. We will strip away the complex engineering jargon and the high‑pressure sales tactics to focus on what actually matters to you and your home. We will explore the different types of companies you will encounter, how to investigate their backgrounds like a detective, how to understand the hardware they are pitching, and—perhaps most importantly—how to read the financial fine print to ensure you are getting a fair deal. By the end of this report, you will be equipped to sit down at your kitchen table with any solar salesperson and separate the facts from the fluff.

Part 1: The Solar Industry Landscape

Before you can effectively vet a solar company, you have to understand who you are actually talking to. The solar industry is structured differently than almost any other home improvement sector. It is fragmented, with a complex web of relationships between sales teams, finance companies, equipment distributors, and the actual installers who climb up on the roof. Understanding these distinctions is the first step in protecting yourself.

1.1 The Great Divide: Sales Organizations vs. Installers

One of the most common sources of confusion for homeowners is the realization that the person selling them the solar system often does not work for the company that will install it. In the solar industry, there is a massive ecosystem of “Sales Organizations.” These are companies that specialize in marketing and customer acquisition. They are the ones who knock on your door, run the Facebook ads you see, and staff the kiosks at your local hardware store. Their primary skill is sales, and their goal is to get a signature on a contract.
Once that contract is signed, the Sales Organization hands the project off to an Engineering, Procurement, and Construction (EPC) company. The EPC is the entity that actually employs the electricians, pulls the permits, buys the panels, and does the physical work. While this model can work, it introduces a layer of complexity and risk. 1
The Disconnect Risk
When you buy from a pure Sales Organization, you are dealing with a middleman. The salesperson’s incentive is to close the deal, often by promising specific timelines or savings. However, they have no control over the installation schedule or the technical realities of the roof. This can lead to a “broken telephone” game where promises made in the living room are impossible to keep on the roof. Furthermore, if a problem arises two years down the road—say, a microinverter fails or a roof leak appears—accountability can become a nightmare. The Sales Organization might tell you to call the installer, while the installer might claim they were just a subcontractor and refer you back to the sales company. 1
The “Ghost Installer” Phenomenon
A particularly concerning trend in 2025 is the rise of the “ghost installer.” In this scenario, a homeowner signs a contract with a polished, national brand, expecting a premium experience. On installation day, however, an unmarked white van pulls up. The crew emerging from it are not employees of the brand you hired; they are third‑party subcontractors, often the lowest bidder found by the sales company. These subcontractors may have no long‑term stake in your project or your satisfaction. If they go out of business or sever ties with the sales company, you may be left with no one to service your warranty. 1
Key Takeaway: Always ask, “Who will physically be on my roof?” You want to know if the company uses its own W‑2 employees or if they farm the work out to 1099 subcontractors. 2

1.2 National Giants vs. Local Specialists

The second major choice you will face is between hiring a large national provider or a local/regional specialist. Both business models have distinct advantages and disadvantages, and the “right” choice depends heavily on your specific needs and personality.
The National Solar Companies
These are the large corporations that operate in dozens of states. They often have recognizable brand names and massive marketing budgets.

Standardization and Scale: The biggest advantage of a national company is consistency. They have “playbooks” for installation that are followed across thousands of homes. They buy equipment in massive bulk—purchasing millions of solar panels at a time—which theoretically allows them to offer lower prices. 3
The “Factory” Approach: The downside of this scale is that you can become just a number. National companies often rely on call centers for customer support. If you have a billing question or a technical issue, you might wait on hold for forty minutes only to speak to a representative in a different time zone who has never seen your house and reads from a script. 3 Furthermore, their standardized approach can be a hindrance if your home is unique. If you have a complex roof with multiple angles, or a historic home with specific aesthetic requirements, a national company’s rigid processes may not be flexible enough to accommodate you. 4
Pricing Reality: Interestingly, despite their bulk buying power, national companies are often not the cheapest option. They have enormous overhead costs—corporate executives, national advertising campaigns, legal departments—that get baked into the price per watt you pay. 5

The Local and Regional Specialists
These are companies that operate within a specific city, county, or state. They are often founded by electricians or engineers who live in the community they serve.

Local Knowledge: Construction is inherently local. A local installer knows that the building inspector in your town is obsessed with fire setbacks, or that the local utility company requires a specific type of disconnect switch. They understand the local weather patterns—whether your area suffers from heavy snow loads, hurricane‑force winds, or extreme desert heat—and they design systems to withstand those specific conditions. 6
Reputation Dependence: A local business survives on word‑of‑mouth. They cannot afford to have angry neighbors bad‑mouthing them at the grocery store. This often leads to a higher level of customer care. If you have a problem, you are more likely to be able to reach the owner of the company directly, rather than navigating a corporate phone tree. 2
Agility: Local companies can often move faster. They don't have to send paperwork to a corporate headquarters for approval. If a permit is ready, they can often schedule the install for the next week. 5
The Risk: The main risk with a very small local company is financial stability. The “Solar Coaster” (the industry’s boom and bust cycle) can be tough on small businesses. If a local company goes bankrupt, your workmanship warranty disappears with them. This is why “years in business” is such a crucial metric, which we will discuss in the next section. 2

1.3 The “Truck and a Ladder” Electrician

At the far end of the spectrum is the solo operator—often a general electrician who does solar installations “on the side.” While these can be the cheapest option, they carry significant risk. Solar requires specialized knowledge of roofing waterproofing, structural engineering, and utility interconnection that a general electrician may not possess. If this individual retires, gets injured, or changes careers, you are left with an “orphaned” system and no support. For a 25‑year investment, most homeowners are better served by a dedicated solar company with an established support structure.

Table 1: Company Type Comparison

Feature	National Installer	Local Specialist	Sales Organization
Pricing	Moderate/High (High overhead)	Moderate (Competitive)	High (Commission layers)
Customer Service	Call Centers, slow response	Personalized, often direct	Disconnected from install
Equipment	Standardized packages	Customizable options	Whatever is cheapest/available
Local Knowledge	Low (Generic playbooks)	High (Knows local codes)	Low
Subcontracting	Frequent	Rare (Usually in‑house)	Almost Always
Risk Profile	“Factory” treatment	Bankruptcy risk (if new)	Accountability gaps

Part 2: Vetting Your Partner

Once you have identified a few potential companies—perhaps one national brand and two highly‑rated local installers—it is time to investigate them. You cannot rely solely on the reviews posted on their own websites, nor can you trust the polished presentation of a salesperson. You must verify the facts yourself. This due diligence is the best insurance policy you can buy.

2.1 The License Check: Non‑Negotiable

The absolute first step is to verify that the company is legally allowed to perform the work. This sounds obvious, but in the confusing world of solar sales, it is often overlooked.
Sales vs. Execution Licenses
In many states, the requirements for selling solar are different from the requirements for installing it. A company might have a “Home Improvement Salesperson” registration, which allows them to knock on your door and sign a contract, but they may lack the electrical or general contractor license required to pull a permit and perform the work. 7
How to Verify
Every state has a licensing board with a searchable online database. You should request the company’s license number and look it up immediately.

California: Visit the CSLB (Contractors State License Board) website. You are looking for a C‑10 (Electrical) license or a C‑46 (Solar) license. A General “B” license is also acceptable but usually requires two distinct subcontractors for the trade work. 7
Minnesota: As of 2023, companies must hold a residential building contractor license and perform electrical work through a licensed electrical contractor. You can verify this at the Department of Labor and Industry. 9
Utah: Look for the S202 specialty solar classification. 10
General: The Interstate Renewable Energy Council (IREC) maintains a National Solar Licensing Database where you can look up the specific requirements for your state. 11

What to Look For
When you find the license record, check three things:

Status: It must say “Active” and “Good Standing.”
Date Issued: Be wary of a company that claims “20 years of experience” but has a license that was issued six months ago. This can sometimes indicate “phoenixing”—where a company goes bankrupt to shed its warranty liabilities and then immediately re‑opens under a new name. 9
Workers Compensation: The license page will often indicate if the company carries workers’ compensation insurance. If they are exempt or do not have it, and a worker falls off your roof, you could be liable for their medical bills. 8

2.2 Certifications: The NABCEP Gold Standard

While a state license is the legal minimum, voluntary certifications indicate a commitment to excellence. The most important acronym you need to know is NABCEP (North American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners). 9
Think of NABCEP certification like board certification for a physician. It is a rigorous credential that requires passing difficult exams, documenting real‑world installation experience, and committing to continuing education.

The Ask: Ask the salesperson, “Is the lead installer for my project NABCEP certified?” It is common for a company to have one person in the office who is certified, but you want to know if the expertise extends to the crew on your roof. 13
The Verification: You can search for certified professionals by name or region on the NABCEP online directory. 14 A company with multiple NABCEP‑certified staff members is demonstrating a high level of professionalism and technical competence.

2.3 The Test of Time: Years in Business

The solar industry is notoriously volatile, often referred to as the “Solar Coaster.” Companies boom when subsidies are high and bust when policies change. This volatility creates a risk for the consumer: if your installer goes out of business, the workmanship warranty they gave you becomes worthless. 15
The Benchmarks

3 Years: The absolute minimum. A company younger than this is still in the “danger zone” of startup failure. 13
5 Years: A solid benchmark. Most solar companies that fail will do so within their first five years. Surviving to year five indicates they have figured out their cash flow and operations. 13
10+ Years: The Gold Standard. A company that has survived for a decade has weathered policy changes, economic downturns, and technology shifts. They are statistically much more likely to be around to service your system in 2035 or 2040. 13

Red Flag Warning: Be careful with the phrase “Combined Experience.” A brand‑new company might claim “50 years of combined experience” because they hired five installers who have each worked for 10 years. While the people are experienced, the company is not. You want to know how long the business entity itself has been incorporated. 13

2.4 Insurance: Protecting Your Assets

Solar installation is major construction. It involves drilling penetrations into your roof (your home’s main defense against weather) and running high‑voltage electrical lines. Accidents, while rare, can happen.

General Liability: A reputable solar company should carry at least $1,000,000 (and preferably $2,000,000) in general liability insurance. 8 This covers damage to your property—for example, if they accidentally drop a solar panel through your skylight or start a fire in your attic.
Workers’ Compensation: This is non‑negotiable. If a worker is injured on your property and the company does not have this insurance, the worker can sue you for their medical costs and lost wages. Always ask for a copy of the “Certificate of Insurance” (COI) and check the date to ensure it is current. 8

2.5 Reputation: digging Deeper than Star Ratings

Online reviews are a useful starting point, but they can be manipulated.

The “3‑Star” Method: Ignore the 5‑star reviews (often solicited immediately after signing) and the 1‑star reviews (often unreasonable). Read the 3‑star and 4‑star reviews. These usually contain the most honest feedback about communication delays, messy jobsites, or sales pressure, giving you a realistic picture of what to expect. 16
The Neighborhood Check: Ask the company for addresses of installations they have done in your specific neighborhood or zip code in the last six months. 13 Drive by these houses. Does the conduit look neat and straight? Do the panels look level? If you see homeowners outside, ask them about their experience. A neighbor’s unbiased opinion is worth ten online reviews.

Part 3: The Hardware (What Goes on the Roof)

Once you have vetted the company, you need to turn your attention to the equipment they are proposing. The market is filled with different brands and technologies, and it is easy to get lost in the technical specifications. However, for most homeowners, a few key concepts are all you need to make an informed choice.

3.1 Solar Panels: The “Tier 1” Standard

You will constantly hear the term “Tier 1” in solar sales pitches. It is often used as a synonym for “high quality,” but its actual meaning is slightly different.
What “Tier 1” Really Means
“Tier 1” is a financial ranking developed by Bloomberg New Energy Finance (BNEF). It assesses bankability. To be Tier 1, a manufacturer must have provided products to at least six major projects that were financed by six different banks. 17 Essentially, it means that the world’s largest banks are willing to bet millions of dollars that these panels will work.
While it is technically a financial metric, it is the best proxy for quality and longevity that a homeowner has. A Tier 1 manufacturer (like Qcells, Canadian Solar, Maxeon, or REC) is a massive, stable corporation with automated manufacturing lines and strict quality control. They are far more likely to be in business 25 years from now to honor a warranty than a small, “Tier 2” manufacturer. 18
Recommendation: Stick to Tier 1 panels. The small savings you might get from a lesser‑known brand are not worth the risk of the manufacturer disappearing.
Efficiency and Aesthetics

Efficiency: Most modern Tier 1 panels have an efficiency rating between 20% and 23%. 21 Unless you have a very small roof and need to maximize every square inch, you do not need to pay a premium for the absolute highest efficiency. A standard 400‑watt panel is sufficient for the vast majority of homes.
Aesthetics: If the look of the system matters to you (for example, if the panels are on the front of your house), look for “all‑black” or “black‑on‑black” panels. These use a black backsheet and black frame to blend in more seamlessly with dark shingles, though they can be slightly less efficient in extreme heat. 17

3.2 Inverters: The Heart of the System

While panels get all the glory, the inverter is the workhorse. Solar panels produce Direct Current (DC) electricity, which your home cannot use. The inverter converts this into Alternating Current (AC), which powers your lights and appliances. Because the inverter contains complex electronics, it is the component most likely to fail over the life of the system. Choosing the right type is crucial.

A. String Inverters (The Traditional Choice)

Imagine a string of old Christmas lights. If one bulb burns out, the whole string goes dark. A string inverter system works similarly: all your panels are wired together in a series and connected to a single large inverter box on the wall.

Pros: This is the most mature and affordable technology. Because the inverter is on the wall (not the roof), it is easy to service or replace. 22
Cons: The “Christmas Light Effect.” If just one panel is shaded by a chimney or a tree branch, the performance of the entire string drops to match that weakest panel.
Best For: Homes with simple, perfectly unshaded roofs that face south. 23

B. Microinverters (The Modern Standard)

Microinverters are small units attached to the back of each solar panel. They convert the DC to AC right there on the roof.

Pros: Independence. If one panel is shaded or dirty, the others keep working at 100%. This maximizes energy production on complex roofs. They also offer “panel‑level monitoring,” allowing you to see the output of every single panel on your phone. They are safer because they eliminate high‑voltage DC wires running across your attic. 25
Cons: Higher upfront cost. If one fails, a technician has to climb up on the roof to replace it.
Best For: Most homeowners. If you have any shade, multiple roof angles, or just want the best monitoring and safety, this is the way to go. 25

C. Power Optimizers (The Hybrid)

This system splits the difference. You still have a central inverter on the wall, but each panel has a small “optimizer” attached to it. The optimizers condition the power so that shading on one panel doesn’t drag down the others.

Pros: Cheaper than microinverters but with similar shade‑handling benefits.
Cons: You have electronics on the roof and on the wall, creating two potential points of failure. 24
Best For: Homeowners who want shade mitigation but are on a tighter budget. 25

Table 2: Inverter Technology Comparison

Feature	String Inverter	Microinverter	Power Optimizer
Best For	Simple, unshaded, south‑facing roofs	Complex roofs, shade, safety focus	Mixed shade/complexity, budget focus
Cost	Low	High	Medium
Shade Tolerance	Poor (One shaded panel affects all)	Excellent (Panels are independent)	Good (Optimizes each panel)
Failure Point	Single point (wall unit)	Multiple points (roof units)	Dual points (roof + wall)
Warranty (Avg)	10‑12 Years	25 Years	12‑25 Years
Monitoring	System‑level only	Panel‑level (see each panel)	Panel‑level

3.3 Batteries: The Question of Storage

In 2025, home batteries (like the Tesla Powerwall or Enphase IQ Battery) are a hot topic. However, they add significant cost—often $10,000 to $15,000 or more. 27 Do you need one?

For Backup: If you live in an area with frequent storm outages or grid instability (like Texas or California), a battery is the only way to keep your lights on when the grid goes down. (Standard solar systems shut off during blackouts for safety).
For Economics: If your utility has “Time of Use” rates (where electricity is expensive in the evening), a battery can save you money by storing cheap solar power during the day and using it at night.
The Verdict: If you have reliable grid power and 1:1 net metering (where the utility pays you full retail price for your exported solar power), a battery is likely a luxury, not a financial necessity.

Part 4: The Money (Financing, Fees, and ROI)

This is the section where the solar industry can get murky. Solar is a financial product as much as a construction project, and understanding the numbers is the only way to ensure you are getting a good return on investment (ROI).

4.1 Price Per Watt ($/W): The “Miles Per Gallon” of Solar

When comparing quotes, you cannot just look at the total bottom‑line price. One company might be quoting a 5 kW system, while another is quoting an 8 kW system. To compare apples to apples, you must calculate the Price Per Watt ($/W). 28
The Math
Take the Total Cash Price (before any tax credits or interest) and divide it by the System Size in Watts (1 kW = 1,000 Watts).

Example: A Quote for $30,000 for a 10 kW system.
10 kW = 10,000 Watts.
$30,000 / 10,000 Watts = $3.00 per Watt.

The Benchmark (2025)
In the current market, a fair cash price usually falls between $2.50 and $3.50 per Watt. 29

If it’s over $4.50/W: You are likely paying inflated commissions or hidden fees.
If it’s under $2.00/W: Be suspicious. They may be cutting corners on labor quality or using inferior, gray‑market equipment. 29

4.2 The “Dealer Fee” Trap

This is the single most common financial pitfall in 2025. With interest rates relatively high, solar lenders know that homeowners balk at seeing a 7% or 8% interest rate on a loan. To fix this, they offer “buy‑down” loans with attractive rates like 3.99% or 4.99%.
How It Works
To give you that low rate, the lender charges an upfront “Dealer Fee” (also called a finance fee or origination fee). This fee is often 20% to 30% of the total loan amount. 32

The Scenario: The installer wants $30,000 for the system.
You choose the 3.99% loan.
The lender adds a 30% dealer fee ($9,000).
Your loan amount becomes $39,000.
You are paying interest on $39,000, not $30,000.

The Solution: Always ask for the “Cash Price” first. 34 Compare this to the financed price. If there is a massive difference, you are paying a dealer fee. Often, it is financially smarter to take a higher interest rate loan (with no dealer fee) and pay it off early. If you pay off a “low rate” loan early, that $9,000 dealer fee is gone forever—you don’t get it back. 33

4.3 Incentives: The Federal ITC and Beyond

The backbone of solar economics in the US is the Federal Investment Tax Credit (ITC).

The Benefit: You can deduct 30% of the total system cost from your federal income taxes. 32
Crucial Detail: This is a tax credit, not a rebate check. You must have a tax liability (taxes owed to the IRS) to use it. If you are retired and pay zero federal taxes, you cannot use the credit directly (though it can carry forward to future years).
State Incentives: Many states have additional perks, like SRECs (Solar Renewable Energy Certificates) where you get paid for the “green‑ness” of your power, or property tax exemptions so your home value goes up but your taxes don’t. 31

4.4 Leasing vs. Owning vs. PPA

You generally have three ways to pay for solar:

Cash / Solar Loan (Ownership): You own the system. You get the 30% tax credit. You get the increase in home value. This offers the highest long‑term savings. 1
Lease: You pay a fixed monthly “rent” to the solar company to use the panels on your roof. You do not own them. The solar company takes the tax credit.
Power Purchase Agreement (PPA): Similar to a lease, but instead of rent, you pay for the electricity the panels produce at a set rate (e.g., 15 ¢/kWh).

The Warning on Leases and PPAs
While these “zero down” options sound attractive, they come with strings attached.

The Escalator: Many contracts have an “escalator clause” that increases your payment by 2.9% every year. By year 15, you might be paying more than grid prices. 1
Selling Your Home: This is the big one. If you sell your house, the buyer must agree to take over your solar lease. If they don’t want to, you might have to buy out the remainder of the lease (costing tens of thousands of dollars) just to close the sale of your home. 35
Recommendation: For most homeowners, ownership (Cash or Loan) is financially superior. Only consider a Lease/PPA if you cannot utilize the tax credit due to lack of income tax liability. 36

Part 5: The Contract (Reading the Fine Print)

Never sign a contract on a tablet at your front door. Ask the salesperson to email you the PDF, and review it quietly on your computer. Here are the specific clauses you need to hunt for to ensure you are protected.

5.1 The Scope of Work

This section defines exactly what you are buying. It must be specific.

Specifics Matter: Avoid contracts that say generic things like “20 × Premium 400W Solar Panels.” This allows the installer to swap in whatever cheap brand is available on installation day.
The Requirement: The contract should list the Manufacturer and Model Number (e.g., “20 × Qcells Q.PEAK DUO BLK ML‑G10+”). It should also list the specific inverter model and the total system size in DC Watts. 9

5.2 The “Change Order” Clause

Construction is unpredictable. Maybe they open your electrical panel and find it is rusted out, or they find rot in your rafters.

Protection: Look for a clause that governs price changes. The contractor should not be allowed to increase the price without your written approval. A fair clause will state that any additional work requires a “Change Order” signed by both parties before work proceeds. 13

5.3 Warranties: The Triple Shield

A “25‑Year Warranty” sounds simple, but in solar, it is actually three distinct warranties layered together. You need to understand the difference. 37
1. Product Warranty (Materials)

What it Covers: The physical integrity of the panel. If the glass shatters, the frame cracks, or moisture gets inside.
Standard: Industry standard is 10‑12 years. Premium panels offer 25 years.

2. Performance Warranty (Power Output)

What it Covers: The efficiency of the panel. All solar panels degrade (lose power) slightly every year—usually about 0.5%. This warranty guarantees that at Year 25, the panel will still produce roughly 80‑85% of its original power.
Reality Check: Modern panels are very stable. This warranty is rarely used, but it provides peace of mind against a “lemon” panel that degrades rapidly. 38

3. Workmanship Warranty (The Most Critical One)

What it Covers: The labor and installation quality. If the roof leaks because they missed a rafter, or if a wire comes loose and sparks, this is the warranty that saves you.
Standard: 1 to 10 years is common.
Gold Standard: 25 years.
The “Gotcha”: Many manufacturer warranties (Product Warranties) cover the cost of the new panel but not the labor to climb up on the roof and install it. A good Workmanship Warranty from your installer covers the labor. Look for a warranty that explicitly covers “Parts, Labor, and Shipping.” 15

5.4 Performance Guarantee

Some premier installers offer a “Production Guarantee.” This is a contractual promise that the system will generate a certain amount of energy (e.g., 10,000 kWh) in its first year.

How it Works: If the system underperforms (produces only 9,000 kWh), the installer pays you the difference in cash.
Value: This prevents the salesperson from over‑promising. If they know the company has to pay for missed targets, they will be honest about how much shade your roof actually gets. 13

5.5 Cancellation Terms

Federal law grants a “cooling‑off period” (usually 3 business days) during which you can cancel the contract for any reason without penalty.

The Trap: Check what happens after those 3 days. Some companies charge massive cancellation fees (e.g., $1,000 or 10% of the contract) claiming they have already performed “engineering work” or “permitting services.” Ensure these fees are reasonable and clearly stated. 13

Part 6: Scams and Red Flags (Safety in 2025)

As solar has grown in popularity, it has attracted bad actors. Scammers use confusion and pressure to trick homeowners. Here are the most common scams to watch out for in 2025.

6.1 The “Government Program” Lie

The Pitch: A person knocks on your door wearing a high‑visibility vest and holding a tablet. They say, “I’m from the state energy program,” or “I’m here to qualify you for the new government program that gives you free solar panels.”
The Truth: There is no government program that gives away free solar panels to general homeowners. This is a lie designed to lower your guard. They are deceptively selling a Lease or PPA. 1
The Defense: Ask to see their government ID. Real government officials do not go door‑to‑door selling products.

6.2 The “Model Home” Promotion

The Pitch: “We are looking for a model home in this neighborhood to showcase our work. If you sign today, we will give you the system at cost in exchange for putting a sign in your yard.”
The Truth: This is a classic sales tactic. Every home is a “model home.” The “special price” is usually just the regular price (or even higher). It is a fake exclusivity ploy to create urgency. 1

6.3 The “Today Only” Pressure

The Pitch: “My manager authorized a special discount, but it expires when I walk out that door.” Or, “We have a crew in the neighborhood next week so we can waive the mobilization fee if you sign now.”
The Truth: Solar is a major construction project. The price of aluminum, copper, and silicon does not fluctuate wildly day‑to‑day. A reputable company will stand by their price for weeks or months. Any company pressuring you to sign immediately is afraid that if you do research, you will find a better deal. 1

6.4 The “Bait and Switch”

The Scam: You sign a contract for premium LG or Maxeon panels. On installation day, the crew installs cheaper, generic panels, hoping you won’t notice the difference.
The Defense: On the morning of the installation, ask the crew foreman to show you the box or the sticker on the back of a panel before it goes up on the roof. Verify the model number matches your contract exactly. 1

Part 7: The Installation Timeline

Homeowners are often surprised to learn that going solar is a process that takes months, not days. Setting realistic expectations will save you frustration. Here is the typical timeline for 2025.

Step 1: Site Survey (Week 1‑2)

Shortly after signing, a technician will visit your home. They will measure your roof, check the condition of your shingles, and inspect your main electrical panel and attic rafters. This ensures the design is structurally sound.

Step 2: Engineering & Permitting (Weeks 2‑8)

This is the “silent phase” where it feels like nothing is happening. The installer’s engineers are drawing up blueprints and submitting them to your local city building department and utility company.

The Bottleneck: This timeline is largely out of the installer’s control. Some cities approve permits in 3 days; others take 8 weeks. Be patient, but ask for updates. 41

Step 3: Installation (1‑3 Days)

The big day! A crew of installers and electricians will arrive. Expect noise (drilling into the roof) and disruption.

Tip: Be home during the install. Watch the work (from a safe distance). Ask questions. A good crew is happy to explain what they are doing.

Step 4: The Inspection (Week 9‑10)

Once the system is built, the city building inspector must come out to verify it meets safety codes.

Requirement: You usually need to be home to let the inspector into the backyard or garage to check the electrical panel. 42

Step 5: Permission to Operate (PTO) (Week 10‑14)

Crucial Warning: After the inspection, your system is ready, but you cannot turn it on yet! The utility company must do a final review and often install a new “bi‑directional” meter that can track the power you export. This official approval is called Permission to Operate (PTO).

The Risk: If you turn your system on before PTO, the old meter might read your exported solar power as usage, causing your bill to skyrocket! Wait for the official “All Clear” email. 41

Part 8: Living with Solar (Maintenance)

Congratulations! You are now a power plant owner. Fortunately, solar is low maintenance.

Monitoring: Your system comes with an app (like Enphase Enlighten or SolarEdge). Check it once a week. You aren’t looking for minor fluctuations, but for “zeros”—if a specific panel shows zero production on a sunny day, something is broken. 43
Cleaning: In most climates, rain is sufficient to keep panels clean. However, if you live in a very dry, dusty area (like Arizona) or have heavy pollen, hosing them down once or twice a year can improve performance by 5‑10%.
Snow: Panels generate heat and are slippery, so snow usually slides off. Do not try to rake snow off with a shovel; you will scratch the glass. Just let nature take its course.

Conclusion: Your Path to Energy Independence

Choosing a solar installer is about risk management. You are entrusting a contractor with the integrity of your roof and the safety of your electrical system for the next twenty‑five years. By following the steps in this guide—verifying the license, checking the financials for hidden fees, demanding Tier 1 equipment, and reading the contract’s fine print—you can navigate this complex market with confidence.

Your Final Checklist:

Get 3 Quotes: Compare Price Per Watt, not just the bottom line.
Verify the License: Confirm they are licensed to install, not just sell.
Check the “Cash Price”: Expose the hidden dealer fees.
Demand Specifics: Get model numbers in the contract.
Ignore the Hype: There is no free government solar.

Solar is one of the smartest investments you can make for your future. Take your time, do your homework, and choose a partner who deserves to be on your roof.

Table 3: Questions to Ask Every Installer

Category	Question	Why Ask This?
Experience	“How many years has this specific license number been active?”	Checks if they closed and re‑opened to dodge warranty claims.
Labor	“Do you use your own employees (W2) or subcontractors (1099)?”	In‑house employees usually have better training and accountability.
Equipment	“Can you guarantee this specific model number in the contract?”	Prevents “bait and switch” with cheaper panels.
Subcontracting	“Who do I call if the roof leaks? You or the roofer?”	Clarifies liability. You want one number to call.
Timeline	“What is the current wait time for permits in my town?”	Tests their local knowledge. If they don’t know, they aren’t local.
Finance	“What is the cash price if I don’t use your financing?”	Reveals the hidden “Dealer Fee” built into the loan.
Certification	“Is the crew leader on my job NABCEP certified?”	Ensures the actual workers are experts, not just the office staff.

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